The Way of St. James: The Stage from Tholey to Illingen
Benediktinerabtei St. Mauritius Tholey → Bergkapelle in Illingen
This stage leads from the Abbey Church of St. Mauritius in Tholey, past the Marian shrine in the Härtelwald, to the mountain chapel in Illingen.
The starting point of this stage is the Abbey Church of St. Mauritius in Tholey. The abbey church dates back to the 12th century. Its predecessor church was first mentioned in 634 A.D. Benedictine monks still live and work in Tholey today.
The Neo-Gothic parish church “Assumption of Mary” in Marpingen was built in 1902–03 on the site of a medieval predecessor building by the St. Johann architect Wilhelm Hector. The self-confidence and religious vitality of the congregation, which are expressed in this sacred building, are also evident in the fact that, at the end of the 19th century, all 2,000 Catholics in the parish joined the church building association that supported the construction of the church.
Of art-historical note in the church—which was originally incorporated into Tholey Abbey—is a late-medieval altarpiece that was set into the south wall beneath a church window during the Neo-Gothic renovation. It is one of the oldest examples of Marian devotion in Marpingen. The history of the Marian fountain (popularly known as “Maieborn”), located in the immediate vicinity of the parish church, also stretches far back into the past; it was already a popular Marian pilgrimage site in the Middle Ages.
On the outskirts of Marpingen lies the Marian shrine “Härtelwald.” Here, hikers first pass the outdoor shrine featuring a stylized rosary and a statue of the Virgin Mary, and immediately afterward reach the Marian chapel. The chapel, built between 1932 and 1935, and the Marian grotto—which was originally located right next to it—were constructed on the site where the Virgin Mary is said to have first appeared to three eight-year-old girls from Marpingen in 1876.
The events in the Härtelwald quickly gained international attention, and Marpingen—despite the “Kulturkampf” that the Prussian state was waging against the Catholic Church at the time—was soon regarded as the “German Lourdes.” When, in 1999, three more “visionaries”—this time adult women from three different villages in the Saarland—experienced a total of 13 announced apparitions in the Härtelwald, many thousands of pilgrims from all over the world once again flocked to Marpingen. In December 2005, the Härtelwald—including the chapel and the Marian spring—was officially recognized as a place of prayer by the Diocese of Trier. The Marian Chapel and its surroundings were extensively renovated and redesigned by the municipality of Marpingen between 2006 and 2008.
From the chapel, the Way of St. James leads up the Way of the Cross—with its 14 stations—to the Marian Spring, 300 meters away. The spring and its entire surroundings were also redesigned by the municipality at great expense. As part of the work carried out from 2004 to 2006, a covered place of worship was also built, which can accommodate around 120 pilgrims.
Shortly thereafter, hikers pass the “Miners’ Cross,” which, together with the replica of a mine entrance erected right next to it just a few years ago, serves as a landmark for what was once—even for Marpingen —economically significant and culturally and historically remarkable line of work. Until well into the 20th century, the village’s miners would gather here to set out together on foot at the start of the week for the mining sites to the south.
From here, the Way of St. James runs parallel to the country road uphill to the old Roman road between Mainz and Metz, which follows the ridge between Marpingen and Urexweiler. (If you cross the L 318 here, you’ll come to an old boundary stone that once marked the border between Nassau-Saarbrücken and Lorraine. This border also served as the denominational boundary between Protestants and Catholics. Not far from the boundary stone are the remains of Celtic burial mounds, indicated by an information sign.)
The actual route doesn’t join the L 318 until just before the entrance to Urexweiler, turning left onto it, then branching off to the right onto a paved forest path after another 100 meters. The Way of St. James now leads for nearly 2 km through a beautiful beech forest before passing several wooden animal sculptures and joining a forest road from Berschweiler to Urexweiler. At first, the route follows a paved high-altitude trail for about 4 km across open fields and through wooded sections. Shortly before Hüttigweiler, hikers leave the Naheweg and turn right onto a wide forest path, which they follow for about 1 km until they reach an intersection. There, the Way of St. James meets the Schaumbergweg and the Bergmannsweg.
Those wishing to walk from here to the Statio Dominus Mundi near Wustweiler should turn right and will reach the church in about 20 minutes.
The Statio Dominus Mundi is a contemporary sacred building of remarkable architectural significance. It houses a unique collection of masterpieces of medieval art, including a painting by Lukas Cranach the Elder.
Those continuing along the Way of St. James should turn left and proceed to Hüttigweiler. On the outskirts of Illingen, the route meets the Naheweg. The path descends into the Ill Valley toward the Baroque St. Stephen’s Church.
Of the original medieval structure, only the 13th-century choir tower has survived. Its basement features a late-Gothic ribbed vault and pointed-arch windows. The nave dates from the 18th century and was built according to a design by Peter Reheis of Blieskastel. The church houses the epitaph of Heinrich von Kerpen, who died in 1577.
Only a few remnants of the church’s medieval murals have survived. On the exterior of the tower, the cornerstone of a large Roman funerary monument is embedded in the wall. Not far from St. Stephen’s Church lie the ruins of Kerpen Castle. It is the remnant of a former moated castle that had been owned by the Lords of Kerpen since the 14th century. The core complex, dating from the 14th century, was completely redesigned in the 16th century and expanded to include an outer bailey. The main castle encloses a rectangular courtyard, at the southwest corner of which the remains of a square tower are preserved. At the southeast corner stands a round tower that was rebuilt after World War II. This tower houses the former castle chapel with its star-vaulted ceiling.
The route continues uphill to the stage’s destination, the Mountain Chapel (approx. 1.5 km). On the final stretch, a footpath running parallel to the road, the stations of the “Seven Sorrows of Mary” (also known as the “Stations of the Cross”) accompany pilgrims to the Mountain Chapel.
Several pilgrimage chapels have stood at this site above the village of Illingen. The oldest likely dated from the 16th century; this is attested to by an epitaph from the year 1555, which can be found in the chapel. The current mountain chapel, built in the Neo-Gothic style, is a place of pilgrimage for Sinti and Roma known far beyond the state’s borders. Since 1955, the pilgrimage—then known as the “Gypsy Pilgrimage”—has taken place every year on the first weekend in October.
19,3 km
approx. 5:45 h
—
Point-to-point
Hiking
- Ascent
- 311 m
- Descent
- 363 m
Source: Sankt Wendeler Land
·
CC BY-ND 4.0